Makers & Retailers - Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre

The history of the LeCoultre family in Switzerland dates back to the 16th century when Pierre LeCoultre (circa 1530-circa 1600), a French Huguenot, fled religious persecution in France and settled in Geneva. In 1558, he gained inhabitant status in Geneva but left the following year to establish a homestead in the Vallée de Joux in the Swiss Jura . Over time, a small community formed in the area, and in 1612, Pierre’s son built a church, marking the foundation of the village of Le Sentier, where the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture is still located today.In 1833, Antoine LeCoultre (1803-1881), a descendant of Pierre, revolutionized watchmaking when he invented a machine to cut watch pinions from steel. He set up a small workshop in Le Sentier, where he refined his craft and developed exceptional timepieces. In 1844, he created the Millionomètre, the most precise measuring instrument of its time, and three years later, he invented a keyless system to wind and set watches. Antoine’s contributions to horology were recognized at the 1851 Great Exhibition in London, where he received a gold medal for his innovations in timepiece precision and mechanization.

In 1866, Antoine and his son, Elie LeCoultre (1842-1917), established the first full-scale watchmaking manufacture in the Vallée de Joux named LeCoultre & Cie., which brought together various watchmaking skills under one roof. By 1870, they had introduced partially mechanized production for complex watch movements, and by 1900, the company had developed over 350 different calibres, including chronographs and repeaters. From 1902 to 1932, LeCoultre & Cie. produced most of the movement blanks for renowned Geneva watchmaker Patek Philippe. In 1903, Edmond Jaeger, a Paris-based watchmaker to the French Navy, challenged Swiss manufacturers to create ultra-thin movements. Jacques-David LeCoultre, Antoine’s grandson and head of production at LeCoultre & Cie., took up the challenge and developed a series of ultra-thin pocket watches, including the world’s thinnest model in 1907, powered by the LeCoultre Calibre 145. That same year, the famed French jeweler Cartier signed an exclusive contract with Jaeger, stipulating that all Jaeger movements would be produced by LeCoultre for the next 15 years.

This collaboration between Edmond Jaeger and LeCoultre eventually led to the formal establishment of the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand in 1937. Their partnership also expanded into automotive instruments: In 1921, they created Ed. Jaeger (London) Limited to produce instruments for prestigious car brands, including gauges for the Bentley Speed Six. Additionally, Jaeger-LeCoultre acquired the patent for the Atmos clock, a clock powered by atmospheric pressure changes, from inventor Jean-Léon Reutter in 1936, marking another important innovation.

Front view of the wooden case Jaeger-LeCoultre Gruen Atmos clock

Jaeger-LeCoultre Gruen Cosmos Atmos Clock previously sold by Jacksons Antique

In North America, due to trade restrictions imposed by the Smoot-Hawley Tariff Act, Jaeger-LeCoultre watches were marketed under the name “LeCoultre” from 1932 to 1985. These watches were produced in locally made cases and distributed by Vacheron-LeCoultre, a subsidiary of Longines-Wittnauer. Despite misconceptions, “LeCoultre” watches were indeed associated with the Swiss-based Jaeger-LeCoultre, as confirmed by Jaeger-LeCoultre experts. One notable example from this era is the “Galaxy,” a high-end diamond watch co-branded with Vacheron & Constantin for the American market.

In 1985, the LeCoultre trademark expired, and the company adopted the Jaeger-LeCoultre name universally. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to be recognised as a pioneer in horology, celebrated for its exceptional craftsmanship and innovation in watchmaking.