Makers & Retailers - Mappin & Webb

Mappin & Webb

Mappin & Webb (1775-present)

Mappin & Webb began in 1775 when Jonathan Mappin opened a silver workshop in Sheffield, a major centre for the English silver trade. This venture eventually developed into Mappin Brothers. In 1860, John Mappin, one of Jonathan’s great-grandsons, established Mappin & Company in London. By 1862, he partnered with his brother-in-law, George Webb, to form Mappin, Webb & Co. The first store opened at 77–78 Oxford Street and quickly gained a reputation for its candelabras, fine silverware, and vanity items, which naturally led to jewellery design. A showroom was set up on Poultry in the City of London in 1870. In 1903, Mappin, Webb & Co. acquired Mappin Brothers, and three years later, the Oxford Street premises were renovated by Belcher & Joass, who also updated the Regent Street store inherited from Mappin Brothers in 1914.

The company encountered trading difficulties in 1926, necessitating a 50% capital reduction. However, in 1929, they expanded the Oxford Street store by adding number 156, renaming it 156-162 Oxford Street. By the 1950s, the Regent Street store was thriving, leading to the closure of the Oxford Street showrooms in 1956. They retained ownership of the property but leased the store and announced the opening of a new showroom on Brompton Road in Knightsbridge. Starting in 1956, Mappin & Webb diversified by acquiring surgical instrument manufacturer John Weiss & Son and investing in the Pinking Shear Company and Belfast-based linen manufacturer Robinson & Cleaver, which held a Royal Warrant as linen drapers to Queen Elizabeth II. They continued to expand in 1957 and 1958 by acquiring Gladwin Limited, a plate and cutlery manufacturer, and a 50% stake in dispensing chemist Lewis & Burrows.

Mappin & Webb mark upon a sterling silver inkwell

Mappin & Webb mark upon a sterling silver inkwell previously sold by Jacksons Antique

Internationally, Mappin & Webb began expanding in the 1890s, opening its first overseas store in Johannesburg, followed by locations in Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo, Biarritz, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Cairo, and Bombay. They built a notable property in Johannesburg in 1915 but closed the showrooms there in 1959 due to import controls. Later that year, Mappin & Webb reported a loss for 1958, partly due to significant foreign exchange losses, which led to a reduction in overseas trading and the closure of several international branches. Around the same time, it was announced that Sears had gained control of the company through share purchases. In October 1959, Mappin & Webb acquired Garrard & Co., the Crown Jeweller, for nearly £1 million.

In 1960, Lewis & Burrows was sold to Clinical Industries Limited and Selim Zilkha. In 1963, Mappin & Webb collaborated with three other established silverware firms to create British Silverware Limited. Mappin & Webb has crafted jewellery for royalty and high society, with patrons including Marie-Antoinette, the Empress of Russia, and Princess Grace of Monaco. Historically, the company has held Royal Warrants from both the Russian Empire and the Japanese Royal Household. Queen Victoria was the first British monarch to commission work from them, including her Golden Jubilee necklace in 1888, designated as an heirloom of the Crown. Mappin & Webb has maintained Royal Warrants in the UK since 1897.

original black and white photo of the mappin & Webb factory

Black and white photo of the original Mappin and Webb factory

Today, Mappin & Webb holds warrants from both Queen Elizabeth II and the Prince of Wales. Master craftsman Martin Swift was appointed Crown Jeweller in 2012, responsible for the British Crown Jewels, with Appleby, also of Mappin & Webb, succeeding him in 2017. Mappin & Webb produced the original Ryder Cup trophy and crafted trophies for the Royal Ascot horse races for 75 years.